A Memorable Time with Alpine Wine

Contributor - Emily Dusseau, Proprietor Ethos Wine Bar & Bistro

To know wine is to travel. Walking the land, meeting the farmers, touching the soil, this is how we learn.

This fall I had the pleasure of visiting a lesser known, but incredibly talented grape growing region, Valtellina. Located in the Lombardy region of Northern Italy, Valtellina is situated in an alpine valley surrounded by the Rhaetian alps, forming the border between Italy and Switzerland. Growing wine here is truly an act of passion. Known to many as ‘heroic viticulture,’ the vineyards are planted on impossibly steep terraced slopes, creating a high-risk, labor-intensive environment.

As I stand in the valley staring up at the snowcapped peaks, the appreciation for what makes it into the bottle and on to the table, grows significantly. The local varietal, called chiavennasca, or “Nebbiolo from the alps,” is a favorite amongst sommeliers and wine lovers alike. Incredibly pure, aromatic, and thought provoking, these wines are not to be missed.

Our ‘go-to,’ producer from the region is hands-down the talented team at AR PEPE. A fifth-generation wine-making family, they are humble traditionalists with a steadfast belief that the sincerest expressions of Nebbiolo require time and patience.

From their entry level wines, to their single-vineyard, aged expressions, the results are stunning. We drank many a bottle sitting by the Adda river, staring at the cows grazing on the steep shaded side of the mountains while we ripped apart fresh rye bread paired with hunks of sweet and salty semi-soft cheese. It brought a whole new meaning to ‘what grows together goes together.’ The 2015 AR PEPE Grumello ‘Rocca de Piro,’ is light in the glass but concentrated on the palate. Raspberry tea leaves, dried herbs, violets, and underripe strawberries greet you on the nose. The palate is the perfect balance of acidity, tannin, and fruit structure. Lifted and flavorful, with crunchy red berries, spice, and a savory finish. This wine manages to be powerful and elegant at the same time. The perfect bottle to open with friends on a chilly evening with a plate of charcuterie and alpine cheese. These wines are the type that inspire, so much so, that a bottle of AR PEPE, poured on a brisk November evening in Italy, resulted in the name Ethos. A below sea-level wine bar and bistro constantly reaching new heights.